Non-Traditional 8 long routes fit for sport climbers - There’s something iconic about multi-pitch climbing: the exposure, the endurance, the feeling of exploration and adventure. Or maybe as rock climbers, fueled by our hunger for the extraordinary, we just want to get as far off the ground as possible. Whatever your reason, multi-pitch climbing is not reserved for climbers with a full trad rack.
October 2012 - 309 COVER: Eric Berghorn on The Bear Arete (5.11b) at Mt. St. Helena, which overlooks Napa Valley, California. Photo by Jim Thornburg. SANCTUARY: Africa-like vistas with Native American history: Cochise Stronghold holds more than just climbing appeal. ROCK THERAPY: Discovering climbing saved two troubled youth from gangs and drugs. Last year, the duo paid it forward in Malaysia. BOULDERING TO GO: Non-climbing travel shouldn't amount to indolence. Pull down at these bouldering areas just outside major cities.
Sasha DiGiulian on Golden (5.14b) Video by LifeStrength - Here, Sasha DiGiulian climbs Golden (5.14b) at the Cathedral in southern Utah. In the past year, DiGiulian has racked up two 5.14d's, two 5.14c's, two 5.14b's, and many more, from the sandstone of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, to the soaring limestone crags of Spain.
Jonathan Siegrist: A Clip of Algorithm (5.14d) Video by 3 Strings Media - A clip from the upcoming video about Jonathan Siegrist's new route in The Fins, Idaho: Algorithm (5.14d). This is likely the hardest route in Idaho, and a ropestretcher at that: Siegrist's 80-meter rope was barely long enough for this ca. 45-meter sport pitch. Read more here.
Preferred Knots for Rappelling As a mountain guide, two questions I’m often asked are: 1) What knot do you use to join two ropes for rappels? and 2) Which knot do you use to tie the end of the ropes for a backup? The knot I use to tie together two ropes for a rappel—and one we commonly use in guides’ training at the AMGA—is the flat overhand. This knot has been called a number of things (including the Euro death knot) and has at times been unfairly demonized.
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